Many people compare the South American city of Buenos Aires to Europe’s Paris. Now I see why. Hidden within the intricately designed grand edifices of the city, is a live and bustling cafe scene, with arguably the most famous of them all being Cafe Tortoni.
Spoiler alert: it’s nothing like you’ve ever seen before.
The most recognizable of these cafes are the so-called ‘traditional cafes’. Locally known as “cafe notables” or “bares notables,” these are places deemed culturally important by the government of Argentina. Some reasons behind this recognition could be spectacular traditional interior architecture that has been preserved for over 100 years, or they might have been a meeting point for famous historic figures, or places relevant to historic or cultural events. You can view a list of them here on the Buenos Aires government website.
Not all historic cafes in Buenos Aires have received governmental recognition, however these less touristic cafes still encapsulate the charm of the turn of the century and many locals (my mother and sister in law included) love visiting for the ambiance.
Something else that’s special about these historic coffee shops is that the waiters are all specialized in their field. They are super nice and professional, offer great hospitality, and most notable of all, they wear suits! Which in the beginning made me personally feel a bit under-dressed for a coffee date, but ultimately they add to the overall 20th-century avant-garde atmosphere.
Café Tortoni
Established in 1858 by a French immigrant, Cafe Tortoni is famous for being the oldest coffee house in the entire country. Inspired by French culture, it’s actually named after a Parisian cafe that shares the same name. Tortoni was an iconic meeting place for artists that had an important part in the birth of Argentina’s tango scene.
Some History
While this famous cafe is absolutely magnificent on its own, its historical significance to tango and other arts in Argentina makes you appreciate it even more. Tortoni used to be a popular meeting point for many artists as well as politicians back in the day.
Now let’s get to the tea (pun intended)
The Food
Let’s start with the food.
Honestly the food was not all that, but you can find a wide variety of pastries, cakes, and coffee on their menu. There are definitely places that top Tortoni when it comes to the food itself, but the atmosphere and history of this place truly make it a remarkable place to visit, at least once.
If you’re headed here, try to opt for a small snack.
One of the classic Argentinian cafe options are cafe con medialunas, or coffee with medialunas, Argentinian crescent-shaped pastries similar to French croissants. This was the first place I tried them, and I fell in love and made sure to eat them all throughout my trip 😝
The Experience
I can’t talk about the experience at Cafe Tortoni without mentioning the interior architecture. It definitely transports you back in time with its high ceilings, intricate designs, and abundance of wood.
One thing to note: prepare yourself for lots of tourists. Although my fiancé and I came before opening, we still had to wait our turn in a line that was getting longer by the minute. So if you really want to visit, try to get there early like us for a shorter wait. If you’re the type of traveler who likes to go to “off-the-beaten-path” locations to get more of a sense of the local environment, swap Cafe Tortoni with Cafe Las Violetas or Cafe de Los Angelitos.
Museum
The most special thing about Cafe Tortoni that makes it stand out form the crowd is the little (but rich) museum in the back of the cafe. There are a couple rooms that you can check out in the back filled with many old pictures and artifacts. I won’t spoil them for you, but they are pretty cool. Additionally, they reserved a table in the back where you can sit with writer Jorge Luis Borges, poet Alfonsina Storni, and tango singer Carlos Gardel, all influential people who contributed greatly to Argentina’s culture.
Events
Cafe Tortoni hosts many jazz and tango shows, not to be missed by music lovers! Make sure you buy tickets at the cafe in advance as these events are popular with tourists and often sell out.
Visiting Café Tortoni
So you want to visit Cafe Tortoni, and see what it’s all about, huh?
To get there, navigate to this location (just make sure you’re not walking around the city with your phone).
Address: Avenida de Mayo 825, Buenos Aires
Hours: Open every day from 8AM – 10PM (make sure to double check for the most updated information)
It’s walking distance from many sightseeing spots such as the Obelisco, Plaza de Mayo, and Casa Rosada.
TLDR: Practical Tips
- Summary: Cafe Tortoni is the oldest cafe in Argentina and is one of the most beautiful cafes in the Buenos Aires.
- Arrive early, because there is sure to be a long line as it’s a popular tourist destination.
- Alternatively if you don’t like lines, here’s a list of great traditional cafes around Buenos Aires that might be less crowded as they are less touristic.
- Don’t forget to head to the museum in the back of the cafe to learn more about its cultural significance.
- The classic Argentinian cafe food is cafe con medialunas, so don’t miss that out.
- Cafe Tortoni hosts come pretty cool events, namely Tango shows in the evening. If you’re interested, make sure to book spots in advance as they fill up quickly!
I hope this guide helped you plan out your visit to experience what life was like during the early days of Argentina’s founding.
Until next time,
Take a shans!
